LED Strip 12V — Cuttable Cove Lighting, 5 Metres
A 12V LED strip driven by a transformer. The standard answer for cornice, ceiling cove, cabinet and display lighting; cuttable at set intervals.
International price
Price
€0.25
Product code: GP-SRT-12V
Description
A 12V LED strip is a flexible circuit carrying a line of LEDs, with an adhesive backing that sticks to almost any surface. Because it runs on extra-low voltage it is preferred inside furniture, in cabinets and wherever hands can reach.
A driver is mandatory
This strip does not plug into the mains; a 12V driver goes between. Work out the total wattage of your strip and choose a driver rated at least 20% above it. Example: 5 m × 14.4 W/m = 72 W, so a 90 W driver. A driver running at its limit overheats and its life is shortened.
What the chip number means
The chip number is the physical size of the LED (2835 = 2.8 × 3.5 mm). A larger chip gives more light and generates more heat. 2835 is the general-purpose standard; 5050 is brighter and used for colour and RGB work; 2330 and 3535 are for high-output runs.
Cutting and joining
Strips are cut at the scissor marks — usually every three LEDs. Cutting elsewhere leaves that section dead. Cut ends can be joined with connectors or by soldering.
Technical Specifications
| Power Supply | 12V DC — driver required |
| Length | 5 metres (reel) |
| LED Chip Options | 2835 · 3535 · 4040 · 5050 · 2330 |
| LED Density | 120 / 240 LEDs per metre |
| Colour Temperature | White · Natural White · Amber · Blue · Red · Green · RGB |
| Cutting | At the scissor marks, roughly every 3 LEDs |
| Mounting Surface | Self-adhesive backing |
| Suitable For | Indoor (IP20 versions) |
Usage & Warnings
Power supply
- This product runs on 12V and must not be plugged into the mains directly. A 12V LED driver is required between the strip and the mains.
- Choose a driver rated at least 20% above the total wattage of the strip. A driver running at its limit overheats and fails early.
- Place the driver where it can ventilate; do not bury it in a sealed box or in insulation.
Cutting and joining
- Cut only on the marked scissor points. Cutting anywhere else breaks the circuit of that section.
- Join cut ends with the manufacturer's connectors or by soldering; never leave bare ends exposed.
- Observe polarity — reversed connections stop the strip from lighting.
Where to use
- Standard versions are for indoor use. Use a version with the appropriate ingress protection rating in bathrooms, on façades and under eaves.
- Clean the surface of dust and grease before sticking the strip down; the adhesive backing will not hold on a dirty surface.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I plug it straight into the mains?
No. A 12V strip connected directly to 220V mains burns out instantly and creates a fire risk. Always use a 12V driver. If you want a strip that connects directly to the mains, see the 220V LED Strip.
What size driver do I need?
Multiply the wattage per metre by the total length and choose a driver rated at least 20% above the result. 5 m × 14.4 W/m = 72 W, so a 90 W driver is right. A driver working exactly at its limit overheats and fails early.
Can I cut it anywhere?
No, only at the scissor marks. They usually appear every three LEDs and show the copper contact points. Cutting anywhere else breaks the circuit and that section will not light.
How much space is needed behind a cornice?
Leave at least 5–8 cm between the strip and the ceiling or wall so the light can spread. In a narrower gap the individual LEDs show as dots and you do not get the continuous line you are after.
Is it safe inside a cabinet?
Yes — that is exactly why 12V is preferred inside furniture. Running on extra-low voltage, there is no shock risk. Place the driver outside the cabinet where it can ventilate.
Can it be used in a damp area?
The standard versions are for indoor use (IP20). In bathrooms, on façades and under eaves use a silicone-coated version with the appropriate ingress protection rating.
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